GINZA SIX EDITORS
盡情享受洗練和贅的愉快的銀座的能量景點 A Power Spot in Ginza: Filling Up on Refined Luxury
GINZA SIX EDITORS Vol.86
秋天的樣子不久也偷偷靠近悶熱的東京的9月上旬。但是被在馬上要歐洲的收集采訪的時候摸底調查收集？突然看ni GINZA SIX。作為周遊觀光船收集以及日本特別成排地全部匯集的奢華的時裝店把所連起來的GINZA SIX是仿佛漫步巴黎的大道Ｍｏｎｔａｉｇｎｅ以及米蘭的montenaporeone的愉快。想作為時裝記者理解的新的信息跳進眼睛，對手來說不由自主發現許多變得想要的東西。充滿誘惑和奢侈的經驗的1小時半的短路旅行的始marida。
羅馬的毛皮的老鋪芬迪。甚至GINZA SIX在銀座中央路添ino角擁有了時裝店。是1925年的創業，但是5個女兒們成為接班人，在更加現代的味道發展起來，相當於第3代的西爾維亞·芬迪現在負責設計專業。和曾作為青年27歲的卷曲·ragaferudo在1965年簽訂合同，那個54年這個長時間越過的協作是芬迪的歷史的"華"。很遺憾地卷曲·ragaferudo在今年2月芬迪的收集表演的2日之前去世了，但是據說最後為止打電話拿出對收集的指示。是任何人變得不在世，并且也沒把預想換成的突然的事情。稱贊卷曲的偉業，剩下表演的最後流動的大衛·羅伯的"HERO"對耳朵現在也。因為聽到出自卡爾用親筆在1981年寫的"筆跡"(離精彩地顯示出文字的筆法，在日本的書法近)的FF標識"karigurafi"被使這次訪問時裝店的理由中的一個若幹的項目商品化，被展開的信息。從毛皮的外套到袋的帶扣有了！ 品格高，并且，像卷曲的最後的留言那樣，1個不是絕對想有的卷曲·ragaferudo在後代剩下的禮品的話有存在感的FF標識"karigurafi"仿佛想。
衹不是商品的質量的高度，并且在幾棟能到短時間訪問米蘭以及巴黎的奢華的品牌的最高峰，敬重，細心周到的會客態度嘗老鋪的潛力的愉快。那個不僅海外的有名的像而且是作為甚至GINZA SIX能嘗的稀少的經驗。我品牌的真正的力衹是技術，并且也相信衹不是設計，并且時裝店的對應也對包括的綜合力的高度。也許是即使能確實體會那個質量的高度的GINZA SIX漫步也好像能照奢侈的氣氛的或許好像作為銀座的能量景點的存在。
Text：Atsuko Fujioka Photos：Kanako Noguchi Edit：Yuka Okada(edit81)
It’s hot and humid here in Tokyo in early September, but signs of fall are beginning to seep into the air. Soon I’ll be on my way to Europe to cover Fashion Week, but today I chose to stroll around GINZA SIX—lined with luxury boutiques displaying cruise collections, Japan specials, and more, all arranged side by side—and maybe get an advance peek. It feels much like taking a stroll down Avenue Montaigne in Paris or Via Monte Napoleone in Milan. As a fashion journalist, I’m always on the lookout for new information. There’s so much here to catch the eye. I feel I want to pick things up without thinking and find so much I would personally like to own. And in this way begins a short hour-and-a-half trip filled with luxury and enticements.
I first visit Ginza Tsutaya Books, a palace of books.
The GINZA SIX location in particular is known for its collection of unique titles. It’s my perpetual favorite. Whenever I’m here, I browse the photography section, where you’ll always find special limited editions. If you inquire, a store’s white-gloved photography concierge will turn the pages for you while providing helpful explanations. My concierge today is Fumiaki Banba.
On this occasion, I’m after a photography collection from the English photographer David Bailey (390,000 yen; all prices listed before tax). To make it easier to leaf through and enjoy this huge book, it’s displayed on a custom desk designed by Marc Newson (amazingly, the book and desk are sold together!), which is positioned at the entrance of the photography section. In the distant past, seeking out and pining for fashion and London, I’d gaze intently into his black-and-white photos, all but boring holes through them. David Bailey was my hero in the London of that distant time.
In Britain, when the class system remains fairly entrenched, a fishmonger’s son conquered the world’s fashion magazines as the industry’s top photographer and became a major figure of the counterculture—truly a 60s success story. He was the embodiment of pop culture in London at a time when the establishment was tumbling down.
The book is divided by era, from the 1960s to the present. The photos of the leading celebrities of the day are sharp black-and-whites, sometimes whimsically cropped. You look at them again and again and never tire. Or, perhaps it’s better to say, you can study them for hours. They’re materials from which the imagination springs; will the source ever run dry? The photos almost speak the lives of their subjects.
Jean Shrimpton, supermodel and erstwhile lover of David Bailey, was also a conqueror of the 60s. Twiggy may have been more famous in Japan, but globally, in the fashion magazines of the time, Shrimpton was by far the more prominent figure. When Shrimpton rushed in, soaking wet, and met Diana Vreeland, famed editor-in-chief of American Vogue, for the first time, Vreeland reportedly cried out, “Adorable!” Shrimpton was the legendary muse of Swinging London; even her passport photo was perfect, it’s said. Among the fashion shots of Shrimpton taken by Bailey that graced magazine covers are innumerable masterpieces. You’ll find a selection of these in this volume. After his relationship with Jean Shrimpton ended, David Bailey married Catherine Deneuve; they later divorced…
Oh, here’s Federico Fellini, the director, and Marcello Mastroianni, and here’s Jeanne Moreau! Every time I turn the page, I encounter, once again, brimming from every page, the essence of Bailey’s vision. Every portrait I look at makes me smile. I could study each one forever—but the time, the time… I feel rushed and turn the pages reluctantly.
Fashion has strong ties to counterculture: photography, music, literature, art, dance—all these modes of expression stimulate creative individuals. The 60s and 70s are themselves a fount of inspiration. The photos that transformed the symbolic figures of these decades into icons express something beyond their subject matter. At times, they presaged what was to come. The much-discussed film Once Upon a Time in Hollywood, currently in theaters, takes up the 1969 murder of actress Sharon Tate, in which Sharon, eight months pregnant, and several friends, including her former fiancé, celebrity hair stylist Jay Sebring, were murdered in the mansion of the director Roman Polanski, Tate’s husband, while he was away in London shooting a film. Tate hadn’t been married to Polanski for long. The photo here shows them when they were perhaps at their happiest, before tragedy struck. She was murdered by members of the Manson Family, a cult led by Charles Manson. The photo gives a sense of this historical backdrop, a time when the hippy movement began tilting towards cultism.
Needing a change of pace, I next go to Giuseppe Zanotti, a gorgeous Italian shoe brand.
During Milan Fashion Week, there’s great vibrancy and glamour on Via Monte Napoleone. Perfume drifts through the air. I could chat there on the streets forever, as if I actually lived there. There’s an unending stream of people at the Giuseppe Zanotti boutique in particular. At the GINZA SIX boutique as well, you’ll find rows of iconic shoes that express peak glamour.
This is what Zanotti is all about! These white boots have metallic gold heels with a patterned uneven surface, as if they’d been embossed. Giuseppe Zanotti’s magical powers of sophistication give a simple look to this stunning combination of white and gold. It’s chic to wear white boots in winter. Wearing these, no matter what else you wear, will transform you into a Milanese sophisticate.
Giuseppe Zanotti’s second magical power is to make sparkle itself the essence of the brand. Without fail, at the showroom in Via Monte Napoleone each season, he sets out jeweled shoes that confer brilliance upon every step (above photo: 220,000 yen). As diamond rings are for fingers, these shoes are exquisite jewelry for the feet. They’re gorgeous in a way that makes the people around you catch their breath. The large, dazzling flower, apparently created to grace the red carpet or a special evening occasion, sparkles on the ankle. Who would wear these shoes? What dress would they wear? The thought buoys my spirits. You’ll want to keep these jeweled shoes for special occasions.
This is the third magical power of Giuseppe Zanotti. I find myself succumbing to temptation. “Feel free to try a pair on,” says an encouraging voice. With that, I choose a pair of black flats (105,000 yen) from the Zanotti lineup, more or less intended for ordinary outings. There’s a ribbon of rhinestones on the toe; there’s an intense sense of Zanotti’s spirit in the air. By chance, they go pretty well, I think, with the sweater and pleated skirt I happen to be wearing, my signature look. I discover the shoes look great not just in evening dress, but with the clothes in which I regularly venture out into the world. The enticing world of Zanotti is a knockout.
Italian brands really grab hold of a woman’s heart. And, as if drawn by magic, I go next to Fendi.
Fendi, a long-standing proprietor of fur and leather goods, operates a boutique in the corner of GINZA SIX along Ginza Chuo Avenue. Founded in 1925, the shop was passed down to the founder’s five daughters, who expanded it with modern styles. Currently, its creative director is Silvia Fendi, from the family’s third generation. Karl Lagerfeld joined the company in 1965 at the tender age of 27: this 54-year collaboration is the great glory of Fendi’s history. Regrettably, Karl Lagerfeld passed away this year in February, two days before Fendi was to show its collection. He reportedly was giving instructions over the phone until the very end. It happened suddenly; no one expected it. David Bowie’s “Heroes” played at the end of the show to honor Karl’s prodigious achievements. It still rings in my ear. One reason I came to Fendi today was I’d heard that a number of items incorporated the FF logo based on the calligraphy handwritten by Karl in 1981. And, indeed, from fur coats to handbag buckles, this turns out to be true! It’s somewhat like Karl’s last statement. Highly refined and with an affecting presence, this FF calligraphy is perhaps a gift Karl Lagerfeld has bequeathed us. I definitely want something with this logo.
His gorgeous sketches are displayed in the elevator leading to the VIP room. The strong bond with Fendi is palpable. His distinctive kitsch color schemes and flowing sketches breathe eternal life into the brand.
Peekaboo X-Lite, a hot handbag line at the moment, is now available in a large-sized crocodile leather bag (3,500,000 yen). The large dimensions make it ideal for carrying numerous documents, and it looks versatile enough for work. I reach for it without thinking. The bright, brown crocodile leather goes well with any style. One could carry it with all sorts of looks, and it’s surprisingly light. The splendid craftsmanship gives a strong sense of Fendi’s depths as a fashion maison.
The FF logo, an integral part of Fendi’s history, remains as popular as ever. Initially used in the liners, it first appeared in 1969 with Fendi’s prêt-à-porter fur coat collection, becoming an icon of the brand thereafter. Starting with the popular Baguette handbag, it’s woven into various items in Jacquard fabric and prints and occurs as a fur accent as well. This tailored coat (516,000 yen) is accented with gorgeous, whimsical fur pockets bearing the FF logo.
Anyone coming to Fendi would want to run their hands through the maison’s iconic top-of-the-line fur. Wrapping yourself in soft fur exercises a soothing magic over both body and mind. It’s a kind of happiness to which all women can surely relate. If you’re reasonably careful, the fur will last 100 years, I’m told. Three generations will wear it, after which it returns to the earth. In the fourth floor VIP room, I get advice from the fur expert on hand. Seeing various furs and running your hands through them is the ultimate experience. The refinement of this black and white blouson (23,681,000 yen) makes it perfect, of course, for special evenings; but it would also go surprisingly well with a pair of sporty jeans. Having said this, the use of high-grade bobcat fur in a casual design speaks to Fendi’s wonderful combination of sensibility and technique. The brand feels all the more appealing.
GINZA SIX offers the opportunity to visit, in a short span of time, the pinnacles of Milanese and Parisian luxury brands. The customer service is thoughtful and attentive. It’s a real pleasure to experience the underlying strength of these long-standing brands—brands that are about so much more than the quality of their products. It’s a rare experience one can experience not just on famed shopping boulevards overseas, but at GINZA SIX. The true strength of a brand isn’t just technique, and it isn’t just design. I’m convinced it’s the high standard for overall capabilities, including the service customers receive at its boutiques. You can experience this exalted quality at GINZA SIX while strolling about and soaking up this aura of luxury, as if you were at a power spot in the heart of Ginza.
Text：Atsuko Fujioka Photos：Kanako Noguchi Edit：Yuka Okada（edit81）
經過國際羊毛秘書處(IWS)女裝時裝指導員，作為時裝記者開始活動。朝日新聞，每日新聞，AERA，FIGARO japon被從報紙到時尚雜誌廣泛的媒體執筆。當，另外，連載不停在25ans，GINGER，GIZELE等的日本的時尚雜誌，刊登在中國版的Ray或者Glamorous也的時候。也負責信息知識辭典"imidasu"的時裝專業的寫作編輯，在手機版的imidasu(http://imidas.jp)解釋時裝用語的"花的ＬＡＮ方法"超人氣。在容易知道專門用語，解釋的原稿得到公認，異行業企業，團體等的講演也家電，化妝品多。1年兩次舉行的"藤岡篤子時裝·傾向速報研討會"以編輯，服飾的采購員或者設計師為中心受到高的評價，是日本第一的動員數。如果"買主變化的話，賣方著作變化"(日本效率協會)。社團法人日本流行色協會時裝顧問。日本和法國協會理事。自2016年度起就任神戶藝術工科大學藝術工學部時裝設計學科客座教授。正在Instagram GINZASIX_OFFICIAL傳播